"This cameras shoots in 8K." Why would I 𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘳 want that?
You better think (think)
If I’m going to be here all the time might as well make it 𝘈𝘌𝘚𝘛𝘏𝘌𝘛𝘐𝘊 What are your plans this weekend? I’m studying and catching up with some friends before lab work starts up again on Monday
When Algenist launched the Genius Liquid Collagen with "vegan collagen" my first thought was, "What? Only animals have collagen!" Well, you're looking at a vial of collagen that has been produced by yeast. Collagen is the main structural protein in animals, there are over 28 types of collagen. Type I collagen makes up about 90% of the collagen found in humans. Collagen gives our skin its strength, flexibility, structure, and durability. Collagen is a triple helix, made of three coils of amino acids wrapped around each other. This coiled structure allows collagen to be stretched without breaking. Plants and microbes don't normally make collagen, but turns out they can! With some help from science, of course. Vegan collagen is often produced from modified yeast and bacteria, scientists have been doing this for decades. Collagen can also be produced by modified plants, like the tobacco plant. In one method, 4 genes that encode for the building blocks of collagen were added into a yeast's genetic structure. The human genes were expressed in the modified yeast and they started producing the building blocks of human collagen type I. These building blocks were collected and treated with pepsin (a digestive enzyme), which assembled them into collagen and broke down any material that didn't form properly. Why make microbe or plant-based collagen? It's often purer and it doesn't rely on animals. Though it occurs rarely, animal collagen can cause foreign body or allergic reactions. Animal sources of collagen are fish, pigs, and cows. Collagen is useful as a moisturizer for the skin, but also has medical applications. Collagen is used as a material for cosmetic filler, as carriers in drug delivery, as sutures, and as scaffolds for tissue engineering. Collagen can also be modified and used for neuron regeneration, blood vessel repair, bone regeneration, wound healing, and more! DOI: 10.1002/yea.730
Redditor brunomennaB's grandma always wanted to dye her hair...it finally happened! What does beauty feel like to you?
Another year wasted on planet Earth. Thanks Elon!
✋ But not actually Let's break down what TEWL means. Trans-epidermal means across the skin, so TEWL or trans-epidermal water loss is a measurement of the water that evaporates through the skin into the air. TEWL is often used to infer the skin's barrier function, it's like estimating height based on a footprint size TEWL is often simplified to: Higher TEWL means your skin barrier is damaged and drying and lower TEWL means your skin barrier is strong and being moisturized Imagine a dry sponge. If we measured it with a TEWL device, it would have a water evaporation rate of 0. There's no water in the sponge, so no water evaporates. If we add water to the sponge, water would start evaporating and the TEWL measurement would increase greatly. Is the sponge now damaged? It's the same with our skin, TEWL will increase for a short period after cleansing the skin. That's for two reasons. Cleansers can disturb the organization of our skin reducing its ability to hold onto water for a while and also...because water is wet and made our face wet and water evaporates. It's important to understand the difference! What's important in looking at TEWL measurements is how they change over time, before and after a treatment or condition We would first measure the TEWL of a subject before any treatment, to create a baseline - the "normal" measurement. Then we would apply our treatment, say a moisturizer, and measure TEWL at time points afterwards. We'd likely see a spike in TEWL as the moisturizer evaporates off the skin. If the moisturizer is working, we'd see a decline over time and hopefully the TEWL measurements would be lower than baseline Even products that are often said to be complete barriers or occlusives like petrolatum (Vaseline) won't stop TEWL - in experiments it only halves it for a few hours. Which is fine, it still works! So try not to say you should aim to eliminate or stop TEWL! It's important to understand that this process is natural, normal, and always happening. Instead, the aim if you want skin that’s less dry should be to reduce TEWL, compared to TEWL levels before you applied your skincare
Darlings, it's that time of year again! Annual be relatable to the Public. In that spirit, I have instructed Hamish to share my 2019 Resolutions. Enjoy! And may my list inspire you to a better life. Have the lawyers sue each other Fire all staff not named Hamish Buy McDonald's Charter jet to attend Global Warming Galapagos Summit 2019 Forgive Lindsay Lohan Finish renovations on Familià Learn French Annex France Rediscover the family castle Ask Gwyneth to sell off stock of rocks Mulch rose garden with La Mer Go on girls shopping trip with Angelina and Madonna Send Jeff Besos a Trader Joe's gift card Desalinate the ocean
OMG! What's the proper application order of your beauty products? If you're applying oil first is everything else after useless? Fortunately, the answer for most of these types of questions is: It probably doesn't matter much. The reality of it is that while there are similarities between each type of beauty product - each formula is unique. If you wanted a real answer, you'd have to test each product combination...and what are the endpoints? Are you looking at skin moisturization? Trans-epidermal water loss? Penetration of actives? Layering rules are guidelines and usually informed by opinions - not research. Product layering isn't well-studied, because it adds a lot of complexity to the study's design. However, I did find one experiment that examined the ordering of a toner, a cream, and a water spray...and the results? For both groups of "normal" and "dry" skin when they used cream on its own, cream then toner, or toner then cream...skin hydration was about the same. From this experiment applying cream then reapplying toner every 2 hours reduced skin hydration over time in comparison to applying cream and/or toner just once Pat-pat-pat that link in bio to learn more!
Take a moment for yourself today and enjoy your own brand.
Are sunscreens from Europe better than US ones? Firstly. US-A, US-A, US-A! Secondly. Often, yes. Why? Regulations. The US FDA's regulations on sunscreen chemicals allowed on the market are almost 20 years behind Europe and most of the world. Look at the graph above. The blue lines show how well US sunscreens absorb across the UV spectrum and the orange lines show how well European sunscreens absorb across the UV spectrum. In most cases, the blue US absorption lines are lower than the orange European lines above 330 nm. Remember that UVA is between 315 nm and 400 nm. This means that, in general, the American sunscreens offer poorer protection against UVA radiation. UVA may contribute to or cause skin cancers, contribute to photoaging (like hyperpigmented spots and wrinkles), leads to temporary immune system suppression, and causes DNA damage. The researcher Professor Brian Diffey (of critical wavelength fame), estimated that on average, the US sunscreens tested transmitted 3 times as much UV to the skin as the European ones. So does this mean you should always buy European sunscreens over US sunscreens? If you could only randomly select a sunscreen from a shelf, then chances are higher you'll get a sunscreen with more UVA protection in Europe But there are always exceptions, 1 US sunscreen in this experiment showed a similar absorption profile to the European ones. Professor Diffey confirms it is the Babyganics Mineral-Based Sunscreen SPF 50+ What about sunscreens from Asia and the rest of the world? Mexican, Asian, Australian, etc sunscreen regulations are more modern and similar to European regulations. Blue, US Sunscreens shown: CeraVe Sunscreen Body Lotion SPF 50 Coppertone Water BABIES Lotion Babyganics Mineral-Based Sunscreen SPF 50+ CVS Pharmacy Sun Lotion SPF 50 Orange, EU Sunscreens shown: Carroten Sensicare SPF 50 Sun Wel! Sensitive SPF 50 Bioderma Photoderm Max SPF 50+ Pierre Fabre Avène Lait Enfant SPF 50+ DOI: 10.1001/jamadermatol.2015.6069
A week of UV exposure as measured by my La Roche Posay UV tracker...and it's not much. Most of the day I'm inside at a desk, by a large window - even then I'm not receiving much, if any, UV. I've clipped my UV tracker to my hat, yes I'm one of those indoor hat guys. The one day where I received a good amount of UV was on Wednesday where I spent most of the day outdoors. The majority of it (>90%) was UVA - which contributes more to visible signs of photoaging and hyperpigmentation, which are my bigger concerns when it comes to UV exposure. Daily sunscreen has become part of my routine, but based on this data and my not giving a shit, I'm not going to beat myself up for missing a day. Especially if I'm going to be inside. The La Roche Posay UV tracker measures UVA exposure and then extrapolates UVB exposure based on that. It uses RFID to transfer the data from the tracker to the app on the iPhone. It's a small clip, but people will definitely notice it. Some people thought it was hardware for Pokemon Go. I would like to make it clear that I do not play Pokemon Go. I do not play games or spend time on the amusement of one's self. I am a very serious and important person. My favourite novel is a textbook. Even as a child I read graphs. In news articles, it's insinuated that it tracks humidity, weather, and pollution - this data isn't collected from the tracker, it's just displayed in the app through weather services. Would I recommend purchasing one at $60 USD? Most of us have the common sense of knowing when it's sunny or bright outside. It's like buying a home weatherstation, if it's something that really interests you - having the data is fun, but not everyone needs one. Also to keep in mind is that, at least through the app, you can't actually get the raw data. Your UVA and UVB exposure is shown to you as a percentage of your "Daily UV Dose" which is based on a survey about your skin type and concerns you fill out in the app. What that dose is or amount of exposure is isn't transparent, it's only given to you as percentages. Again, not a huge issue for me, as I think of this as a neat gadget, not a scientific device.
When the cleanser gets in your eyes.
From your phone or screens? Probably not. One important factor to consider when examining the results of studies looking at the effect of visible light on human skin is the context. Firstly, studies that have shown a decrease in collagen, an increase in free radical production, or an increase in cell death...have been done on human skin cells in a petri dish. This doesn't mean those results will directly translate to our skin. Our skin has more layers, including the stratum corneum which includes melanin - which absorbs visible light like blue, green, and red light. Almost none of the effects observed in human skin cells in a petri dish have been found in human skin. The main exception is hyperpigmentation, which has only been observed in people with deeper skin tones (phototype 3 and greater). That brings us to another important point, which is irradiance. We can all tell the difference between a dimly lit light and a brightly lit one, but somehow many articles on the topic forget about this. I don't think it's much of a stretch to say that the sun is brighter than your phone. One experiment that showed hyperpigmentation in people with deeper skin tones used a dose of 99 J/cm2 of blue light. That's estimated to be about 1:30 to 2:30 hours of direct sunlight in Summer. But with a screen? You'd need about 2000 hours to get that same exposure and that's assuming you're holding the screen close. The brightest TV screens at a distance of 30 cm (~12 inches) from your face are delivering about 1/200th of the blue light from the sun. Irradiance follows the inverse-square law, so doubling the distance from that bright TV screen to 60 cm means you're getting 1/4th of the energy. There's no standard for what blue light protection means. So for a consumer, it's difficult to compare products, methods of protection, and their effectiveness. Many of us are already using sunscreens, pigments, and antioxidants which may help. For those with deeper skin tones, remember irradiance. Be sun-safe when you're out on a bright summer day. Watching Netflix? You can just chill. DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2018.04.018, 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2018.11.011
This holiday season, I would like to share with you the art of not giving a fuck. Don't want to wear sunscreen every day? Don't. You do want to wear sunscreen every day? Awesome. Need your beauty routine to be rigorous and scientific? Great! Want your beauty routine to be fun, relaxing, and make yourself feel special? Good for you! Want both? That's cool too! Want to buy that $300 hand cream because it makes you feel happy? Do it. Think it's a waste of money? Well, great don't buy it! Luckily, it's not your money. Think instabrows are pretty? Then do it! Think instabrows are tacky? Then don't do it! Your beauty routine is private and personal, and it's time we stopped criticizing others for things they choose to do - especially because at the end of the day, it doesn't affect you and doesn't really matter much in the long-run. Science, studies, and evidence are important, but it's just about as naive to think one paper or opinion is the absolute truth. As long as it's not causing harm, lying, or deceitful...I think sometimes it's better to just let it go and let people have their fun. Hold your family tight this year (or don't if they suck) and say it with me "I just don't give a fuck."
For #worldaidsday I want to share with you the story of Cedric Sturdevant He is an HIV advocate and activist living in Jackson, Mississippi. To many of the young people he takes care of, he’s simply known as “dad” He was profiled in the New York Times in the article “America’s Hidden HIV Epidemic”, highlighting the growing number of HIV cases in the South, particularly in Jackson. It’s a great, eye opening, and important read and I encourage you to look it up.
This is a video of hibiscus being processed in a Soxhlet extractor! This is a small-scale example of how many plant extracts commonly found in cosmetics, food, and supplements are made. The bottom flask contains the solvent, in this case alcohol, which is heated up. As it is heated up, it evaporates into a gas, and moves upwards. As it moves into the cooling tube, the solvent condenses back into a liquid, and drips onto the sample - the hibiscus. The warm solvent dissolves compounds inside the hibiscus and when the sample container is filled, it flows back down into the bottom flask. This extraction uses solubility to separate out compounds from the material. Solubility is the amount of material or solute that can be dissolved into a solvent. Salt has a very high solubility in water, but it has no lipid solubility. Heat can increase the solubility of a solute in a solvent. For example, you can dissolve more sugar into water by heating it up - to make syrup! Solubility is a very easy way to spot some odd/false marketing. Many products claim that their plant oils contain a high level of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), but ascorbic acid is highly soluble in water, but not in oils. So when you process a plant for its oil, the ascorbic acid wouldn't come out in the oils. You can easily demonstrate this at home: fill a small container with oil and pour in some salt - no matter how much you shake it, the salt will never dissolve. We make decisions on what solvent to use based on the compound' s polarity and safety. Water is a polar solvent which will dissolve polar materials like ascorbic acid. Alcohols like ethanol are slightly less polar and can dissolve less polar compounds like salicylic acid Lipids are non-polar to varying degrees and are great at dissolving non-polar compounds - like retinol (Vitamin A). Back to the video, a small pilot study demonstrated that compounds extracted from hibiscus with alcohol sped up wound healing when applied to the skin of rats Thanks to chemist Santiago Ochoa for this video. DOI: 10.1016/j.jep.2017.01.016