Sodium Coco Sulfate contains Sodium Lauryl Sulfate They are both surfactants which help remove dirt, soil, and oil by surrounding them and then dissolving them away. They are both great foamers and when used on their own and in high concentrations can be irritating to the skin. However, they can both be formulated into very skin-friendly and gentle cleansers - so it's not always a red flag ingredient Sodium Coco Sulfate is made with the fatty acids found in coconut oil and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is made with the fatty acid Lauric Acid Lauric acid is one of the fatty acids found in coconut oil. In fact, it makes up about 50% of the fatty acids found in coconut oil. That means when the coconut oil is processed into Sodium Coco Sulfate, that around 50% content of lauric acid becomes Sodium Lauryl Sulfate It's like a brand saying that their products are sugar-free by using "evaporated cane juice". "Evaporated cane juice" is sugar...just without the refining which removes molasses and other stuff "Refined" has become a bad word in the health and beauty industry, but it literally means to improve by removing impurities Claiming a brand or product is free of "dangerous", "harmful", and "toxic" Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and then using Sodium Coco Sulfate in its place is dishonest and hypocritical Funnily enough, the Honest Company was sued over this and removed Sodium Coco Sulfate from the products, but this kind of misleading marketing still happens and it should make you just a little bit suspicious
You wanna be on top?
@gelcream, but make it coach.
Niacinamide crystals imaged with polarized light microscopy by Margaret Oeschli
It's time to talk about the ugly side of beauty, and I don't mean the latest with Thomas Halbert, Jeffree Star, and Nikkietutorials. In 2015 it was estimated that over 22,000 children were working in illegal mica mines in India by SOMO and Terre des Hommes. Child miners are exposed to hazardous and sometimes fatal conditions. Often working a $2 12-hour day instead of attending school. Mica can be found in blushes, highlighters, lipstick, eyeshadows, sunscreens and more. Mica is also used in electronics. It's unlikely you've lived your life without purchasing mica. In April this year, Responsible Mica Initiative launched community-based programs in 40 villages in India to provide nutrition, education, and other options for income. The organization's aim is to create a sustainable mica supply chain in India by 2022. But Peru, Brazil, Sudan, Pakistan, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, and China are other mica producing countries where mining companies are suspected of using child labour. And the industry is growing. WorldVision surveyed 60 Canadian cosmetic companies and found that 72% did not publicly outline their standards and expectations of suppliers and 65% provided no supply chain information. The shocking conditions that people work in to produce fast fashion have been exposed over the years, but what about cosmetics? My mother was a victim of poor labour practices - in Canada. She worked in a lipstick factory that did not provide for her safety, well-being, and even warmth in the Winter. We have employee rights in Canada, but the process for justice was painful. She was placed in court where lawyers read demeaning statements about her and tried to paint her as a bully and evil. In the end - she won. But those lipsticks are still sold in stores and many of my friends still use the brand. From companies that force the press to bend to their whims, to CEOs that lie through their teeth, to misleading branding, to ingrained racism and sexism, to the abuse of people and their families - sometimes it feels like this industry isn't beautiful at all.
When you go jogging with a friend and they ask if you want to pick up the pace 🦀👌
⚠️🚨⚠️ PLEASE READ THE WHOLE CAPTION! In a paper published in 2007 in the New England Journal of Medicine, a very reputable medical journal, a group of doctors described case reports of 3 boys with unexplained prepubertal gynecomastia. Gynecomastia is the enlargement of breast tissue in boys. Adolescent gynecomastia is common and transient, but prepubertal gynecomastia is rare. As it turns out all 3 boys were using products with parabens. Further in vitro cell studies on breast cancer tissue showed that the parabens increased markers of estrogen receptor binding in a similar way to estradiol. They were also able to show that the parabens suppressed androgenic activity. Just 0.025% of the paraben caused similar, if not more, gene expression as estradiol in the breast cancer cells. Later topical studies have shown that the parabens are able to penetrate into the bloodstream when applied to the skin. Now ⚠️🚨⚠️ what if I told you that I just LIED to you, and the actual chemicals studied were Lavender Oil and Tea Tree Oil? Yup! These case studies of gynecomastia were thought to be linked to the use of lavender oil and tea tree oil, and the breast cancer cell studies that showed estrogenic and antiandrogenic effects were done with small concentrations of lavender and tea tree oil. Now what if I told you that animal studies, for example, a rat uterotrophic assay showed no estrogenic effects from lavender essential oil. What if I told you that more than 170 papers cited the paper published in the New England Journal of Medicine as evidence that lavender and tea trea oil were estrogenic - without adding to the evidence? What if I told you that some researchers are thinking the results were due to false-positives? That the material in the cups used to study the cells could have influenced the results? Does the way that you think about these things change when it's a "synthetic", "toxic", or "natural" product? What biases are at play consciously or unconsciously? Does this bias influence where you search for information, does it influence what information you regard and remember? DOI: 10.1056/NEJMoa064725, 10.1016/j.reprotox.2013.09.010
I know a lot of people turn to the ingredient list of a cosmetic product first, but I'm here to tell you: it's not always as telling as you may think! Ingredient lists for cosmetics usually use the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) dictionary. It's a descriptive, not systematic nomenclature Let's take the surfactant 'Sodium Lauryl Sulfate' for example or in IUPAC (a systematic chemical nomenclature) Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate. The Lauryl refers to the chemical compound Lauryl Alcohol (Dodecan-1-ol in IUPAC), which means that it is a fatty alcohol with a 12-carbon atom chain. The name 'lauryl' comes from laurel plants who's oil contains a high content of lauric acid which can be used to produce lauryl alcohol Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate is more specific, we don't need to know what Lauryl means, but we know from the prefix 'Dodeca-' that it contains a 12-carbon chain Sodium Octyl Sulfate, for example, will have a similar structure to Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate, but have an 8-carbon chain. The Latin/Greek prefix 'Octa-' means 8 This is where it gets sticky, Sodium Coco Sulfate means that the fatty alcohols used to create the surfactant comes from Coconut oil (hence the Coco). Coconut oil contains a range of fatty acids, about 50% is Lauric or Dodecanoic Acid, which are converted into fatty alcohols before processing into the surfactant There is no IUPAC name for Sodium Coco Sulfate because it's a mixture of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate/Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate, Sodium Tetradecyl Sulfate, Sodium Hexadecyl Sulfate, Sodium Octadecyl Sulfate, and other chemicals depending on purity One supplier of Sodium Coco Sulfate lists the fatty alcohol composition as 70%-80% C12-C14 (Dodecanol - Tetradecanol) and 20-30% C16-18 (Hexadecanol - Octadecanol) This allows some brands to fearmonger against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate/Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate, saying it's harsh, synthetic, etc and still use it for its foaming and cleansing properties - by using Sodium Coco Sulfate. While it's true, their ingredients may not list Sodium Lauryl Sulfate...is it really free-from? Is something sugar-free if it contains honey?
A couple years ago I had a Visia UV photo taken. I was shocked by how much sun damage I had! The dark spots are deposits of melanin, some are caused by UV exposure and some are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne. These images are usually shocking at first, but are useful to see how you've progressed. Would you want to see your UV photo? #sunscreen #skincare #sun #photography
Drinking 8 glasses of water will restore the youthful glow to your skin, so much so that you'll turn into a dewy beauty monster. Drinking water will absolve you of the fact that sometimes you're a bad person. If you drink water, people will engage on your social media more, they'll actually read those funny captions you put so much time on and genuinely laugh, they'll think about you when their screens are off. Drinking water will erase your embarrassing teenage years and replace those memories with a Disney sitcom. Drinking water will make you feel like an accomplished health guru, floating over a field of organic Ãmárånth, also known as Foreigner's Wheat. Is any of this true? Find out by diving into that link in bio, like a tiny, disgusting, faeces covered fly diving into a cooling refreshing glass of some jerk's $18 patio drink. Also, that's milk.
Still and always.
This tree to me represents life. The curves represent how life changes and the bends represent how sometimes to grow you have to move back. Also it's dead inside so that's pretty representative.
This is a microscopic image of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). These are harvested from people and can grow in lab conditions just like the ones in your skin would. They can even form the stratified layers that we see in our skin. By growing NHEKs in different conditions researchers can see how certain chemicals and conditions (like UV) affect the chemicals they produce, how they form, and how viable and healthy they are. Claims on how a cosmetic ingredient can boost collagen or some other effect are often studied on cells just like these. NHEKs are important for other types of research too, they can help us understand the mechanics of cancer and other diseases - providing us with new pathways to target with therapies and treatments.
Thank you so much to the early reviewers of my 15% Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) gel serum! This has been so useful and I'm so grateful for your thorough and in-depth feedback and insights. This is so above and beyond what I had expected and it fills my heart to see how much y'all care ❤️
Liquid crystal made from cholesterol based compounds! Liquid crystals get their name because they flow like a liquid, but have structured molecules - like a crystal. In this case the organisation is called nematic, where the molecules share long-range directional orientation. The colour is dependent on the space between the molecules. A smaller gap means that the liquid crystal reflects shorter wavelengths (blue) and a larger gap means it reflects larger wavelengths (red) This particular liquid crystal will change colour based on temperature - as you add heat the space between the molecules changes, also changing the wavelength being reflected which changes the colour we perceive. Also it's lip gloss.